~Agricultural News~
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CALS incubators help grow
Newest aids are four wine bays at the UI
Caldwell Complex equipped with the right water, drains, 3-phase power, and
temperature control needed by start-up wineries whose owners can’t yet afford
their own places to de-stem, crush grapes, then ferment and bottle wines.
“Since our bays opened in 2008, Davis Creek
Cellars and Fuijshin Family Cellars have already
outgrown our bays and moved to their own nearby locations,” said James Toomey,
director of UI’s Caldwell Business Incubator. Current tenant Vale Winery
produced more than 14,000 bottles of wine in 2011, a number of them winning
local and regional awards, and he’s helping several newer start-ups.
“It’s 7 to 10 years before winemakers start
making money because winemaking is so capital intensive,” says Vale owner John
Danielson. “We need the kind of help this incubator provides.”
He also credits UI scientists and the nearby
New in 2011, UI Caldwell partnered with
Toomey and the TVCC work with area
wine-makers and the Caldwell Economic Development Council to promote
agro-tourism to wineries in the 13-mile area connecting
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Can potato chips be made
healthier?
CALS
Food Scientist Kerry Huber’s innovative work with potatoes
has yielded a discovery that may make fans of some tasty foods rejoice: a
starch that resists quick conversion to blood sugar.
The
new way to process potatoes and a new product promise to become valuable new
additions for
Huber’s
process won for early stage innovation of 2011 at the Idaho Innovation Awards
program in October at
For
lovers of potato chips and French fries, Huber’s discovery promises potato
ingredients with high amounts of resistant starch that can help lower a
person’s glycemic index response, improve insulin
levels, and lower fat and cholesterol levels.
For
those with type 2 diabetes or allergies to corn or wheat products, resistant
starch from potatoes could open a wider world of eating choices.
The
patent-pending discovery already has food companies, including Simplot, lining
up to expand Huber’s laboratory-scale tests to larger, more exhaustive testing
that will open doors to supermarket trials.
Also,
Solanux, a team of University of Idaho and Washington
State University students, placed third among 104 entries in the University of
Washington Business Plan competition—the only finalist from beyond the Seattle
area. The team won $5,000 for outlining how a business could produce patented
potato-based food ingredients that improve insulin levels and lower fat and
cholesterol levels.
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WE APPRECIATE YOU AND THANK
YOU
Our
Mir Seyedbagheri, Elmore Extension Educator - MaryAnn Peterson,
4-H Program Assistant
The
Wishes to Thank the
Following
2010-2011 4-H Volunteer Leaders
Christine Acord Skyler Abrahamson Lori
Ackley Chastity
Allen
Erin Arel Jennifer Baker Sandra Bonnett Michael Brletic
Nancy Brletic Kathy Brown Ashlynn
Caines Michelle
Chandler
Brianna Clark Jennifer Clark Justine Clark Lois Clark
Jessica Cook Nadine Cook Chartelle
Eichman Michaela
French
Sky Gennette Vanessa Gil Lissa
Hall Christine
Hammond
Rick Hance Kateera
Hedelius Arlene
Hoagland Alisha Jewett
Dolores Jewett Larry Jewett
Sharon Kilburn Natasha King
Bobbie Law Diana Lawson
Wayne Lehto Bethany Malicoat Connie
Martell Teresa
McCallum
Jessie Miller Deb Neely Margaret Ottoway Susan
Raber
Jessica Rivera Kelley Rodgers Mike Rodriquez Heather Schexnider
Cathy Smith Mitch Smith Vickie Spencer Melinda
Gay Swan Natasha Tienhaara
Barbara Wilson Ruthi
Wilson Sally Wolfe Heidi Young
Ralph Zaehringer June Zilisch
2010-2011 4-H
Volunteer Educational Task Force Officers
Chairman-Dolores Jewett Secretary-Nancy Brletic
Vice President-Nancy Brletic Treasurer-Nadine
Cook
Beef Chairman-Cliff Lisle Beef
Secretary-Natasha Tienhaara
Dairy Chairman-Jennifer Clark Dog Chairman-Lori Ackley
Dog Secretary-Bethany Mailicoat Fundraiser
Chairman-Jennifer Baker
Goat Chairman-Shannon Jones Home Ec. Chairman-Kateera Hedelius
Horse Chairman-Kelley Rodgers Horse Co-Chairman-Sharon Kilburn
Horse Secretary-Barbara Wilson Horse
Treasurer-Janna Beauclair
Sheep Chairman-Jeff Cook Sheep Secretary-Chas
Allen
Swine
Chairman-Geri Brennan Swine
Secretary-Jennifer Baker
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Mir-M. Seyedbagheri Provides Educational Workshops, Trainings and
Services for
Strong University of Idaho Extension
programs have profoundly benefitted the people of
Growers and the county as a whole benefit
from Mir’s applied research, educational workshops, technological training, and
on-farm consultations. For 25 years he has conducted applied research trials in
Interwoven with Mir’s teachings on basic
soil and water conservation and cultural and biological methods for weed and
pest control, are the latest scientific and technological advances that he
gleans from state, regional, national and international scientific conferences
he attends and presents findings from his applied research trials in Elmore
County. Mir’s applied research, international publications
and “meeting of minds” with the international scientific community have been
very beneficial for the
Mir’s educational program has a profound
impact on gardeners and horticulturists. In addition to the Master Gardeners
program, Mir teaches soil classes for the UI “Living on the Land” courses and
several community gardening workshops. Soil is a living system and Mir’s
primary focus is to educate growers and gardeners on the importance of
returning our soils to their natural organic state before the critical
depletion of our soils that has taken place over the past 100 years.
The
• People who have attended Extension
educational programs are 3 times more likely to use water-conserving “xeriscaping” practices than people who have not attended
Extension Horticulture Programs. Certified Master Gardeners are 4 times more
likely to use xeriscaping practices.
• Master Gardeners are more likely to have
paving stone, brick, or other permeable surfaces that allow water penetration
into the soil. Those who have not attended Extension Horticulture programs are
more likely to have concrete slabs, obstructing water penetration and
increasing flow into the storm drainage system.
• People who have never attended Extension
Horticulture workshops are 2-3 times more likely to leave their grass clippings
for trash pick-up, increasing costs for garbage service as well as shortening
the life expectancy of the land fill. Those who have attended Extension
programs are more likely to leave the clippings on the lawn or use them in
compost, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers.
• People who have attended Extension
Horticulture workshops are 50% less likely to haul their woody plant waste to
the dump or transfer station, thus conserving landfill resources.
• Master Gardeners are 4 times more likely to
scout for pests before applying chemicals than those who have never attended an
Extension horticulture program, and are only half as likely to use chemical
pesticides as their primary tool to control insects.
• Residents who have attended Extension horticulture
programs are 2-3 times more likely to have tested their soil for fertility,
thus are less likely to over-apply fertilizers that can leach into water
systems.
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State Noxious Weed Officials
Warn About Poison Hemlock Dangers
State noxious weed officials are
warning Idahoans to be on the lookout for Poison Hemlock, a dangerous noxious
weed that has been documented as being fatal to humans and all classes of
livestock and that is now in full growth around the state.
Typically Poison Hemlock grows in riparian
areas, stream banks, canals and ditch banks and pastures. It is a biennial
plant meaning it grows for two years, flowers, seeds and then dies.
Pictures and information about Poison Hemlock and what to do to control and
eradicate it are also available at the Idaho Weed Awareness Campaign's website
at: www.idahoweedawareness.org
<http://www.idahoweedawareness.org/>.
"This dangerous noxious weed presents
an issue of public and animal safety. Poison Hemlock can and has been proven as
deadly to both animals and even humans. It is so toxic that horses and
cows literally can die within hours after eating this poisonous
plant", said Roger Batt, statewide
coordinator for the Idaho Weed Awareness Campaign.
Poison Hemlock grows 3-6 feet tall with a
smooth green stem, usually spotted or streaked with red or purple spots. The
leaves are finely divided and lacy, resembling a "carrot-like" leaf.
The weed has flowers that are small, white and clustered and resemble the
spokes of an umbrella. The Poison Hemlock root is fleshy and white. When
crushed, Poison Hemlock's leaves and roots emit a rank, unpleasant odor often
compared to that of a mouse or parsnip.
Though highly toxic, Poison Hemlock is very
easy to control and eradicate with hand pulling and the use of herbicide
treatments. Always wear rubber gloves and protective clothing/gear when pulling
this weed and place the plant into a plastic bag and dispose of it into a trash
receptacle. When using an herbicide to control and eradicate Poison
Hemlock, officials say to use an approved herbicide and always follow the label
and safety instructions on that label.
Poison Hemlock, whose scientific name is
Conium maculatum, is the plant from which juice was
used by the ancient Greeks to kill Socrates.
"There are documented cases where
people have eaten Poison Hemlock because they mistook the weed for some type of
wild parsley, dill or fennel," Batt
added. "Poison Hemlock roots are also mistaken for parsnips, its
leaves for parsley or fennel and its roots and seeds for wild carrots or
anise."
Residents can also seek technical assistance
to get rid of Poison Hemlock and other noxious weeds by contacting their County
Weed Superintendent located under
You can also report Poison Hemlock and other
noxious weeds on the Idaho Noxious Weed Hotline at 1-866-IDWEEDs
(866-439-3337).
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IRRIGATION MANAGEMENT IN ALFALFA
Mir M. Seyedbagheri and James M. Torell
Since most alfalfa in southern
Soil-Water Relationships
Evaporatranspiration (ET) is the sum of transpiration and water evaporated
from the soil and exterior portions of the plant. Consumptive use is ET plus water retained in
plant tissue. Since the maximum amount
of water in the plant is less than 1% of total water evaporated during the
growing season, CU is identical with ET for practical purposes (Pair, 1975). Studies on ET in alfalfa have shown that
yield is a function of ET and thus a deficit in ET results in a proportional
yield deficit. This relationship occurs
because ET correlates with CO2 exchange through the stomates (Guitjens 1990). Wright (1988) reported the results of several
years of investigation on ET of irrigated alfalfa in southcentral
Understanding
the principles of water storage in the soil is critical to irrigation
management. When water is applied to a field pores between soil particles are
filled and water percolates downward in the soil profile until a point (field
capacity) is reached where water downward movement ceases and the remaining
soil water is held as a film on soil particles.
Thus, the soil profile is a storage reservoir from which plants extract
water. Water holding capacity (WHC) is
related to texture with coarse textured soils having the lowest WHC and fine
textured soils having the highest WHC.
Water storage capacity available to a crop is determined by multiplying
the water holding capacity of the soil by the rooting depth of the crop. The effective rooting depth of alfalfa is
four feet even though alfalfa roots can penetrate as deep as 12 feet if not
restricted by impenetrable layers. This
is true because at least 70% of the water used by alfalfa is taken up in the
top 4’ of the soil profile. For alfalfa,
studies have shown that soil must be maintained at or above 50% of available
water holding capacity. Thus, for
alfalfa the allowable depletion is 50% of the available water in the root zone.
Alfalfa Irrigation
Alfalfa differs from most other irrigated crops in that it has
a deep root zone that is able to utilize water from the entire soil profile in
most southern
Irrigation
Schedules
Irrigation scheduling can be
accomplished through two methods: The soil moisture method and the water budget
method. Both methods can be used
concurrently and it is a common practice to schedule irrigation based on the
water budget method but verify based on soil moisture monitoring.
Irrigation scheduling by the water
budget method involves monitoring water additions (irrigation and rainfall) and
losses from evapotranspiration and inefficiencies in
the irrigation system. Evapotranspiration is the sum of water lost by evaporation
from the soil surface and transpiration through the plant’s stomata. Evapotranspiration
values are available from local newspapers or the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation
website (http://www.pn.usbr.gov/agrimet).
Irrigation is scheduled by doing the following procedure: 1) Obtain an estimate of alfalfa water use
for the station closest to your location, 2) Add daily water use to running
total of water use to date, 3) Subtract water additions from irrigation and
rainfall, 4) Schedule irrigation to replace accumulated water use by the crop.
In the soil moisture method, soil
moisture content is measured and irrigation is done before the allowable
depletion has been reached. Several
methods are available including the feel method, tensiometers,
gypsum blocks, granular matrix sensors and neutron probe. It is common practice to graph soil moisture
readings with soil moisture on the Y axis and time on the X axis to produce a
visual image of how fast the soil is drying.
Because alfalfa is a deep rooted crop, it is important to measure soil
moisture at more than one depth. It is
an accepted practice to schedule irrigation based on an 18” reading but also
monitor moisture at 36” to ascertain whether the crop is utilizing deep water (Orloff et al. 1995).
Recent studies at the Parma Research
and
Recent drought years have demonstrated
the importance of developing irrigation management methods to deal with low
supplies of irrigation water. Crop
management situations include 1) water is available for the entire growing
season but in reduced quantity, 2) water will be shut off entirely at some
point in the growing seasons. In the
former situations, the grower should be especially careful to fill up the
entire soil profile early in the season to take full advantage of the alfalfa
plant’s deep root system. Strategies for
income optimization with a limited water supply include 1) irrigating for
maximum yield and terminating irrigation once the available water supply has
been used and 2) underirrigating for all growth cycles,
reducing the yield of each harvest but producing hay throughout the growing
season. In some cases, it may be
possible to irrigate fully during the most sensitive stages of alfalfa growth
and use deficit irrigation during less sensitive growth stages. For example, initial regrowth
following cutting is a sensitive period that responds well to a full water
supply. In ears when water must be cut
off early in the season, such as the power buy back, the grower must manage to
minimize long-term damage to the alfalfa stand (Guitjens,
1990). This can be done by allowing the
last cut to mature and dry so that the plants will go into dormancy (Shewmaker, et. al., )
Improved irrigation management in
alfalfa is beneficial because it optimizes yield while minimizes power cost,
nutrient leaching and other deleterious effects of excess water.
Literature Cited
Guitjens, J. C. 1990.
Alfalfa. In: B. Stewart and D. Nielsen (eds). Irrigation of Agricultural
Crops. pp. 537-569. American Society of Agronomy.
Orloff, S., H. Carlson and B. Hanson. 1995.
Irrigation. In: S. Orloff, H.
Carlson and L. Teuber (eds.), Intermountain Alfalfa
Management. pp. 25-40.
Pair, C.
H., W. W. Hinz, C. Reid and C. R. Frost. 1975.
Sprinkler Irrigation. Sprinkler
Irrigation Association,
Romanko, R. R. 1994.
Better Water Management of Alfalfa.
Shewmaker, G., J. Wright and R. Allen. Alfalfa Irrigation.
Wright, J. 1988.
Daily and seasonal evapotranspiration and
yield of irrigated alfalfa in southern
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Study Suggests
written
by Bill Loftus
Economic data suggests that
"Why are wages so low in
The consequence, Cooke said, is that
The economy of the
Their research analyzed 81 economic sectors
and concluded the gap between average annual wages nationally and
With another agricultural economics graduate
student, Chen Chen, Cooke took an in-depth look at
Compared to
Agricultural workers actually fare quite
well because they earn more than the national average and the number of jobs is
growing, he said.
Analyzing economic data from 2001 to 2009,
Cooke said, "We found
The analysis showed that
Education spending alone cannot improve
Bringing companies that need educated,
skilled workers to
"I think that what this shows is that
education is good because it makes you a lot of money," Cooke said.
"It's a means to an end, it's not the end. It's about the kind of economy
and society we want to live in."
Generally the highest-paying jobs require a
college education. Cooke said
Neighboring
Like a lighter, more nimble race car passing
a heavier, faster race car in a curve, adding graduates helped
Cooke and Kulandaisamy's
paper in the Review of Regional Studies journal published by the Southern
Regional Science Association is available online at bit.ly/iP9XDm.
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Compost Used in Commercial
Agriculture
There are many excellent sources of fragmented
compost information which fails to satisfy many relevant questions and
technical inquiries for which the growers, dairy industry, and public are
seeking answers. This publication reflects inputs from many applied scientists,
the compost industry, and growers who are using compost in their crop
production and nutrient management systems.
Compost is a soil amendment produced through
the metabolism of an organic substrate by aerobic (oxygen-requiring) microbes
under controlled conditions. Composting is an ancient agricultural technology
going back to biblical times that still has important applications in modern
agriculture.
The Composting Process: In the composting
process, microorganisms utilize an organic substrate (e.g. manure, bedding, grass
clippings, municipal waste) as a food source.
The microbes harness the energy contained in the chemical bonds of the
substrate in a process which requires oxygen and water. Heat and CO2 are evolved and the remaining
carbon skeletons are recalcitrant humic substances
that are largely responsible for the soil-amending ability of compost.
Compost Pile Management: In order to produce
a good yield of high quality compost, several variables must be managed to
provide for the needs of the composting microbes. The most important variables are substrate,
oxygen content, water, and temperature.
Methods of Composting: Four methods have
been developed that are useful for on-farm composting: 1) the passively aerated and 2) aerated
static pile methods, 3) the turned pile method, and 4) the in-vessel
method. The common goal of these methods
is to provide sufficient oxygen for the aerobic microbes responsible for the
composting process.
Benefits of Composting: In organic cropping
systems, compost provides a primary source of nutrients for the crop. In
conventional cropping systems, compost provides a supplementary nitrogen source
that compliments fertilizer nitrogen to provide a more sustainable farming
system. Compost enables dairymen and livestock owners to reduce the volume of
manure leaving their operation and provides a source of nutrients and organic
matter for surrounding farms.
Manure management: The livestock industry
produces large quantities of manure that must be disposed of in a way that
prevents contamination of water resources. Composting is an efficient way of
dealing with manure because it reduces manure volume by 30-50% and decreases
fuel use and labor requirements.
Agronomic Benefits: Composting converts the
substrate into an organic soil amendment that is rich in soil-building humic substances. Humic
substances bind soil particles to create soil aggregates responsible for good
soil structure. Everyone can benefit
from composting whether you are a large landowner or have a small backyard. You
can build a simple compost bin or just make a compost pile, using green
(vegetables)and brown (leaves, grass
clippings)materials.
Soil incorporation Non-fatty food wastes
can be buried at least 8 inches below ground level. Burying at least 8 inches
discourages animals from digging up the waste. Soil incorporation is a good
method for disposing of small amounts of food wastes. Mix soil with the food
waste to hasten decomposition. Wastes break down in one month to one year
depending on soil temperatures, number of organisms in soil, and the carbon
content of the wastes. Non-fatty food wastes can be incorporated outside the
drip line of trees or shrubs, or buried in areas that are not being used to
grow plants. The hole must be large enough to allow the waste to be buried
under at least 8 inches of soil. Do not bury meat, bones or other fatty
materials as it tends to attract animals or cause an unpleasant order.
The UI Elmore County Extension office
provides a wealth of horticulture information. If your lawn, trees, garden
plants or ornamentals exhibit signs of disease or insect damage, simply cut a
sample, place into a clean sealed bag and bring it to the office at 535 E.
Jackson. The Extension Educator can identify the problem and give expert recommendations.
You can also have your soil tested for nutrients and receive a detailed report
along with recommendations for soil amendments. If you have questions, call the
office at 208-587-2136 ext.509 or email us at elmore@uidaho.edu.
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Northwest Pasture Guide
Tells How to Manage Plants and Animals
written
by Bill Loftus
Irrigated pastures, rich and green through
the heat of summer, play an important role in beef and dairy operations, said
Glenn E. Shewmaker of
October is one of the most critical months
for pasture management, and particularly for rangelands, said Jim Gerrish, a consultant based in May, Idaho, who contributed
to the book.
"October is probably the most critical
month for getting your pastures ready going into winter," said Gerrish, who operates American GrazingLands
Services, He served as an instructor in the University of Idaho's Lost River
Grazing Academy in mid-September.
"It's a critical time that they be allowed to rest so they have their batteries fully
charged for the spring growth season."
Irrigated pastures are more forgiving because
mistakes such as allowing animals to graze plants too short can be overcome by
adding more water. Rangelands, however, are more fragile.
"A mistake made in rangeland grazing can
haunt you for several years," Gerrish said.
"A mistake made in an irrigated pasture can be corrected the same
year."
The pasture guide grew from the work of a
decades-old informal group, Pacific Northwest Forage Workers, primarily formed
from extension departments at the
Five years ago during a meeting, group
members decided to tackle the need to provide a regional comprehensive
education effort focused on pastures. The book compiles information from a
series of workshops in
Research
and Education grant.
The book offers a complete look at pastures from
planning and planting to maintenance including irrigation and weed management.
The three dozen authors drawn from the region's land grant universities also
provide overviews of health considerations and grazing behavior of livestock.
"It just all evolved real well,"
said Shewmaker,
Past guides have focused mostly on a
crop-based approach, paying attention to plants and how to grow them rather
than including the livestock that will use the pastures.
The guide can show managers how to extend the
useful grazing season and ways to use irrigation most efficiently. The biggest
takeaway message for many pasture owners may be that management does not mean
keeping animals on pastures until the last blade of grass is gone.
"People need to appreciate they need to
leave some leaves, think of them as solar panels, out there so the plants can
recover more quickly," Bohle said.
"The biggest benefit of this publication
is it really gives us a step to step guide for getting the most out of
pastures, and mainly by not grazing them too short," Gerrish
said. "In my opinion the biggest cause of lost pasture production this
country is people just allow their animals to stay on pastures too long and
take them too short."
Beef cattle, dairy cattle, sheep, goats and
horses are among livestock the authors consider on the animal side of the
pasture equation.
The book, "Northwest Pasture and Grazing
Management in the Northwest (PNW 614)," sells for $18 and may be ordered
by email to calspubs@uidaho.edu, fax
to (208) 885-4648 or by calling (208) 885-7982. The book may be ordered online
from http://pubs.wsu.edu or by calling (800) 723-1763.
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Noxious Weeds of
In accordance with Title 22, Chapter 24,
Elmore County Weed Control is giving notice of weeds listed as “noxious” by the
State of
• Black Henbane*
• Bohemian Knotweed
• Brazilian Elodea
• Buffalobur
• Canada Thistle*
• Common Crupina
• Common Reed Phragmites
• Common/European Frogbit
• Curlyleaf Pondweed
• Dalmatian Toadflax*
• Diffuse Knapweed*
• Dyer's Woad
• Eurasian Watermilfoil
• Fanwort
• Feathered Mosquitofern
• Field Bindweed*
• Flowering Rush
• Giant Salvina
• Giant Hogweed
• Giant knotweed
• Hoary Alyssum*
• Houndstongue*
• Hydrilla
• Japanese knotweed
• Johnsongrass
• Jointed Goatgrass*
• Leafy Spurge*
• Matgrass
• Meadow Knapweed
• Mediterranean Sage
• Milium
• Musk Thistle
• Orange Hawkweed*
• Oxeye Daisy*
• Parrotfeather Milfoil
• Perennial Pepperweed*
• Perennial Sowthistle
• Poison Hemlock*
• Policemans Helmet
• Puncturevine*
• Purple Loosestrife*
• Rush Skeletonweed*
• Russian Knapweed*
• Saltcedar*
• Scotch Broom
• Scotch Thistle*
• Small Bugloss
• Spotted Knapweed*
• Syrian Beancaper
• Tansy Ragwort
• Variable-Leaf Milfoil
• Vipers Bugloss
• Water Chestnut
• White Bryony
• Whitetop*
• Yellow Devil Hawkweed
• Yellow Flag Iris
• Yellow Floating Heart
• Yellow Hawkweed
• Yellow Starthistle
• Yellow Toadflax*
*Found in Elmore
It shall be the duty and responsibility of
all landowners to control noxious weeds on their land and property in
accordance with this chapter and with rules promulgated by the Director.
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FAQ HORTICULTURE QUESTIONS
When spring blooms, the Elmore Extension office
deals with numerous calls concerning a variety of horticulture issues. Mir M Seyedbagheri, Extension Educator, spends a large percentage
of his day looking at soil, plant and insect samples; giving his expert advice
and solutions. This publication is meant to inform the public of the most
common questions
FAQ HORTICULTURE QUESTIONS
1. For this desert-like area, what plants
are best for landscaping? Understanding
the environment of
2. What is xeriscaping?
It is planning and designing a water-wise landscape. In some cases, proper native plant selection
can reduce the need to irrigate at all. However, there are many who want color
all summer long. Xeriscaping involves wise design
that utilizes both native plants with drought resistant flowers to minimize
irrigation. A good plan includes soil testing, picking the right plants and
turf, setting irrigation efficiently, using organic mulches and maintaining
your new landscape design. With the right xeriscape
design, you can cut your water usage up to 50% this summer. Imagine how much
water we could conserve if at least 25% of the neighborhood followed your
example.
3. Does an organic solution work better?
Organic methods do work if the method is carried out diligently. Nature’s cycle
of growth and decay has served to keep forest and meadows thriving without the
intervention of man-made fertilizers. In organic gardens, natural balances
exist. The problems gardeners have are that they interrupt this natural cycle by
harvesting and removing everything. Dead leaves and crop plant residue should
be left behind to be re-used by the soil. To keep the natural processes that
feed our plants, we must add organic materials in order to improve the soil foodweb within the soil community. Encouraging biological
diversity in your own garden can minimize the need for artificial pest and
disease control. When a gardener must intervene, the choices made are of high
importance. In some cases, the use of chemicals is needed, however if you are a
vigilant garden warrior, you can prevent most problems from ever occurring.
4. Are there organic ways to control pest?
Here are some Low-Tech Ways To Control Pests:
• Plant resistant varieties.
•
• Turn, Turn, Turn... Turning the soil
with a tiller, garden fork, hoe or other implement can help destroy the soil
dwelling stage of many pests.
• Get Into The Hand-picking Habit! Get out
in your garden every day and do a walk through, looking for trouble--and when
you find it, just pinch the offending pest between thumb and forefinger.
• Use Water As A Pesticide! A strong spray
of water from a garden hose can be a surprisingly effective controller of small
caterpillars, aphids, mites, scale, and the like. One recent study at
• Protect Your Seedlings. Simple barriers
such as catch crops are very effective at protecting young seedlings from
pests. A catch crop is a fast-growing
crop that is grown simultaneously with, or between successive plantings of a
main crop.
• Plant A Trap. Bugs prefer certain
predictable foods. By planting a few sacrificial "trap" veggies, you
can lure them away from the veggies, you want, and then either sacrifice that
crop or nab them while they feast.
• Mix Things Up. You can confuse pests by
mixing up your garden. In diversified planting (where you have, say, a tomato,
a flower, an herb, a few carrots, another tomato, some greens, etc., in a given
row), pests can't easily gain a stronghold the way they can in big single crop
plantings.
• Mulch Pests Away. Mulches help control
pests by repelling and/or confusing them.
• Invite beneficial insects to move in.
Get the good bugs to work for you. Leave the garden spiders alone and let them
eat. You can purchase lady bugs and praying mantis at local nurseries.
5. Iron Deficiency or Heat Stress? Check
leaves. Are the veins green but the rest is yellowing? Treat for Iron Chlorosis with
6. I have insects eating my plants leaves,
what insecticide should I use? Most
insects can be killed by a general insecticide. Unfortunately, beneficial
insects are also killed. First, we need to see what insect it is. If you are
not sure, bring a sample to the Extension Office for a diagnosis. Remember
whatever the solution, always give your plants ample
water and fertilizer to keep them strong and able to recover. In the home
garden, it is always best to practice good organic controls. You can make a
fungicide spray of sulfur dust or baking soda to suppress fungus. You can use
pepper spray or garlic spray as an insecticide to keep the bugs away. Using a compost tea regularly when watering your plants will also
serve to keep insects away. If the pests are out of control then you may
have to resort to chemicals. As always, when using any chemicals, look at the
ingredients and follow all directions.
7. What is the best soil for my plants?
Healthy soil makes a healthy plant which will therefore be stronger and more
resistant to disease. Most of the problems that gardeners experience can be
attributed to poor unhealthy soil. Good soil is 1/3 top soil, 1/3 sand and 1/3
organic matter (good quality compost or manure).
8. What is the best way to feed my plants?
In gardens and yards, the best is foliar feeding or soil applied fertilizers.
9. What is Compost Tea and can it be used
for a fungicide? Compost tea has long
been used as a fertilizer but it has been documented that good quality compost
tea may also help plants suppress fungal diseases. However, it can also have high soluble salt
that could damage your plants.
10. How do you make Compost Tea? To make your own, follow these directions:
• Use a burlap or cheesecloth bag
containing 1 gallon of manure- based compost.
• Steep in a 5 gallon bucket of water.
• Leave it in a warm place for 3 days.
• Stir it well and several times
through-out the day.
• Remove the bag and put the liquid in a
sprayer or a watering can.
• Remove all leaves damaged by disease, then
spray or sprinkle the tea over the plant.
• Repeat every 3 to 4 days if the plants
still shows symptoms.
This spray is most effective when applied in
the evening so plant leaves will remain moist for a few hours.
11. Bacterial Wilt: The main symptom of this
disease is severe wilting of the vines, followed by rapid death of the plant.
The disease is caused by the bacterium Erwinia tracheiphila, and at first may only affect a few vines on a
plant. However, as the disease progresses, more leaves wilt, and eventually the
entire vine is affected. Bacterial wilt is most severe
on cucumber and cantaloupe and less severe on squash, pumpkin and watermelon.
There is no chemical solution. The bacteria are carried from plant to plant by
striped or spotted cucumber beetles. The beetles spread the wilt bacterium by
feeding on infected vines and then feeding on healthy plants. Bacterial wilt
can be reduced in your garden if the beetles are kept under control at the
first sign of activity.
12. What is Fusarium,
Verticillium Wilt and Curly-top? The verticillium
wilt is caused by the soil-borne fungi; most apt to appear in July and August
with signs of wilting. Chronic symptoms include small, yellow foliage, leaf
scorch (marginal browning) and slow growth. If not caught in time, Verticillium wilt will cause a sudden and total collapse of
the plant. Fungicides will not cure infected plants. Since it is a soil fungi, you will probably not be able to save the plants and
must buy resistant ones. Remove all infested plants and debris. When you buy
plants from the nursery, look for resistant types that have on the label either
FW or VW & Curly-top.
FAQs about TREES
13. What is the best thing I can do to prevent
disease or insect damage to my trees?
• First, do a complete visual check of
your trees and shrubs 3 times as year. Early spring, mid-summer and fall
• Deep Root Feed: Your best defense is a
healthy tree. Strong vigorous trees are less susceptible to disease or insect
invasions. After treating a tree for any
disease, it is always recommended that you do a deep root feed to strengthen
the tree. Use a good liquid fertilizer. In our area most trees prefer a
fertilizer with a
14. How do I do a deep root feed?
• Using a soil probe which can be borrowed
from the Extension Office or use any tool that will make small “silver dollar”
size holes in the ground. Place15-20 holes in the ground around the root. This can also be done with a shovel, by pushing soil off to one side
however it is not as effective nor will it go as deep as the soil probe which
typically penetrates 12 inches.
• Purchase liquid fertilizer with N-P-K
rations of 20-20-20 or
• Pour 2 pints of fertilizer solution
(including 5 ozs. of chelated
zinc and iron) in five gallons of water. Mix thoroughly. Please always read the
label instructions and follow completely.
• Fill each of the holes with the solution
until it drains. Repeat in all the holes until the solution is gone. For
smaller trees, you can use ¼ -½ of the indicated amount.
Note:
if you are not able to get liquid fertilizer, you can substitute four cups of
dry granular fertilizer with similar rations (20-20-20) and chelated
or granulated zinc and iron. In this case, it may take longer for the
fertilizer to move down to the root zone.
15. What causes the leaves on my tree to be have dead spots? Anthracnose is a fungus disease reported
quite often in
16. What is making my trees leaves turn brown
and falling off ? (not autumn
season) Could be several issues so it usually best to bring a
sample for diagnosis. One
possibility is heat-drought-water stress.
Solution:
• Check leaves. Are the veins green but
the rest is yellowing?
• Treat for Iron Chlorosis
• Deep Root Feed with
17. My evergreen tree is dropping needles:
needles are spotted and dying. Needlecast (Rhizosphaera): starts on lower branches and works it’s way up.
• Prune the lowest whorl of branches at
first opportunity.
• Clean out debris from in and around
trees then remove and destroy debris.
• Avoid planting in low-lying areas with
poor air drainage.
• Space plants for good air circulation.
• Control weeds around the bases of trees.
• Shear trees during dry weather.
18. Trees have blight? How do I treat it?
Prune
and dispose of diseased twigs and branches, rake up all fallen leaves and twigs
and burn it. Disinfect all pruning tools with a mild solution of bleach and
water with a few drops of dish soap. Dip the tool after each cut. Any open
areas left from the cuttings should be lightly coated with the solution.Elemental Sulfur dust can be applied from the base
of the trunk to the dripline as a general natural
fungicide. Read & follow directions completely.
19. My tree has red burnt flowers. Fire Blight? Fire blight gets its name from the burnt
appearance of affected blossoms and twigs.
Flowers turn brown and wilt; twigs shrivel and blacken, the ends often
curling. There is no cure for fire blight and the best way to deal with the
infection is to remove infected stems and branches cutting no less than 8
inches up from the infected area.
Because the bacteria are so easily transmitted, care should be taken in
disposing of infected plant material. Either burn or discard in the trash. Do not leave infected material where the
bacteria might be spread to surrounding bushes or trees. Care should also be taken with tools which
have come into contact with the bacteria.
Tools can be sterilized in an alcohol solution (three parts denatured
alcohol to one part water). Diluted
household bleach can also be used (one part bleach to nine parts water) as long
as the tools are wiped dry after disinfecting to prevent corrosion.
20. My spruce has web-like areas and with
speckled needles.
Spider mites-Treat with dormant oil or with miticide when mites are active in spring and fall. It is also effective to spray wash with high pressure
water.
21. Why does my trees
have discolored stains on the trunk? Looking closer the tissue underneath is dead.
There are many forms of tree cankers. It is always best to bring a sample to
your local extension office for a definite diagnosis.
Canker
symptoms include dying or dead branches, with wilted leaves among healthy
leaves. Cankers develop on the bark and appear dark or discolored. Cankers
infect trees that are weakened due to disease, borers or stress. Can be fungal
or bacterial, enters at the wound-site. It is important to get trees healthy
with deep root feed & fungicide.
22. Why do my evergreen needles have “cottony”
growths on them.
Cottony
Scale: Spray with insecticide when the insects are active, usually in April-May
and July-Aug.
23. Why is my tree discolored and leaking slimy
stuff? It could be Slime Flux, a
bacterial disease. Yeast grows on the
slime. Prevent stress on tree, deep root feed to strengthen and make healthy.
24. I have branches on my trees where all the
leaves are wilting & others are stunted. What could be causing this? There
are other stress factors that can cause these symptoms. One prevalent disease
is Verticillium Wilt. This is a soil-born pathogen
that is very hard to control. You may have to eventual get
rid of the tree and plant a resistant variety. However, many trees can
recover. The best step is to get the
tree healthy with a deep root feed. Fungicides are not effective for control of
this disease.
a) Why is my tree acting like it is fall in summer? Leaves are getting brown patches and falling
off. One of the most common problems in
our area is Anthracnose. This fungus infects large veined leaves more often,
caused by fungus usually brought on by cold and wet spring. Rake and destroy fallen leaves. Avoid overhead irrigation and promote good air
circulation. Disinfect all pruning tools with a mild solution of bleach and water
with a few drops of dish soap. Dip the tool after each cut. Any open areas left
from the cuttings should be lightly coated with the solution. Treat tree with
fungicide. Follow with early spring fungicide. If you use a chemical garden
fungicide, such as Ortho Daconil, Bonide
garden & ornamental fungicide, or a general lawn and garden
fungicide---please read all directions carefully and used as directed.
25. There are brown spots on my tree leaves and
some are completely brown and falling off the tree. This is commonly known as Leafspot.
Treat the same as
Anthracnose.
26. What if I don’t want to use a chemical
fungicide. You may use other organic
alternatives to chemicals such as:
• Barriers: A light spray of vegetable oil
or highly refined horticulture oil coats leaf structures and acts as a barrier
to fungal diseases, especially rusts and mildew.
• Plant products: Garlic can be used as a
potent broad-spectrum insecticide and it has fungicidal properties when blended
with water, strained and applied to the leaves. The same is true of compost
tea*.
• Baking Soda: Actually this may come
closer to killing off fungus than most fungicide. It’s also nontoxic. Mix 2
teaspoons per gallon of water, adding a few drops of dish soap to help the
solution stick to the plants.
• Bonide -
Tomato And Vegetable 3 In 1 or Lilly Miller - Cueva Copper Soap Most of these organic solutions have to
be applied at least every 10 days during growing season.
The UI Elmore County Extension office
provides a wealth of horticulture information.
If your lawn, trees, garden plants or
ornamentals are exhibiting signs of disease or insect damage, simply cut a
sample, place into a clean sealed bag and bring it to the office at 535 E.
Jackson.
The Extension Educator can identify the
problem and give expert recommendations. You can also have your soil tested for
nutrients and receive a detailed report along with recommendations for soil
amendments. If you have questions, call the office at 208-587-2136 ext.509 or
email us at elmore@uidaho.edu. Visit our website at:
http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/elmore/index.htm
The
_____________________________________________________________________________________
FAQS About
Soil and Fertilizing
Soil is a living system. Soil is defined as
the upper few inches or feet of the earth’s crust. It furnishes mechanical
support, food, water and air for growing plants. Active healthy soil contains
humus (organic matter), clay, mites & nematodes, fungi & bacteria,
plant roots, decaying organisms, air & water, and finally sand & silt.
A good gardener understands the importance of active healthy soil. Robert
Rodale, former editor of Organic Gardening magazine said, "Feeding a plant artificial fertilizers is basically the same as
feeding a person intravenously." Plants, like us, can't survive on junk
food, either. Rodale also emphasized what science has always confirmed: a
successful garden begins with healthy soil, "Ninety percent of all garden
failures are caused by poor soil," he said.
The Elmore County Extension office receives
over 100 calls monthly related to garden issues. At this time of year, we get a
lot of questions regarding spring soil preparation. Here are the top 25
questions we encounter each year.
1. How do I know what type of soil I have?
How do I know if my soil is healthy or if I need to add something to make it right
for planting? Visual symptoms can be used to identify problems, but ultimately
a soil test is the best way for an accurate diagnosis. If you suspect salinity
problems, the Extension Office can do a soil test. You can borrow a soil probe
and get a lab soil bag. Collect soil
samples in various places from the top 6 to 12 inches of soil and place in a
clean sterile bucket; mix it well. Then place a pound of soil in the bag and
take it to your local extension office. You will receive a detailed soil analyses
along with expert recommendations from the Extension Educator.
2. What is the best type of soil? There are
three types of soils, loam is the most favorable for
plant growth.
Loam
Soils-Best
• A mix of sand, silt, clay and organic matter
• Loose and look rich
• When squeezed in the hand, it forms a ball
• Normally absorb and store moisture well
Clay and Silt Soils-Good
• Made of tiny particles
• Feel slick and sticky when wet
• Make “snakes” when rolled between your hands
• Hold moisture well
• Resist water infiltration
• Are easily compacted
• Water often puddles on their surface
• Contain large particles which are visible to
the unaided eye
• Are usually light in color
• Sand feels gritty and will not form a ball
when squeezed in your hand
• Loose and drain easily
3. What will a soil test tell me? Soil testing
will give a report that typically evaluates macro nutrients (N-P-K),
micronutrients (zinc-iron etc), pH and EC (electrical conductivity) as part of
a routine analysis. If the pH is high (>8.5), sodium adsorption ratio (SAR)
should also be calculated. The report will tell you the texture and cation exchange capacity, as well. A more in depth report
will detect all the macro & micro nutrients, showing the ideal ratio
compared to your ratio. Your Extension Educator can then use this report to
give an accurate recommendation on what amendments your soil may need.
4. How much water typically will my soil
hold?
TEXTURE CAPACITY
(inches water per foot soil)
Coarse: coarse to loamy sand 0.5 -
1.0
Light: loamy fine sand to fine sandy
loam 1.0 - 1.5
Medium: very fine sandy loam to silt 1.5 - 2.0
Fine:
sandy clay loam to clay 2.0 -
2.5
5. Why do we need to add iron in the soil?
·
Aids in energy
transfer
·
Activator for
enzymes that control respiration
·
Required for
chlorophyll formation
6. How do I get the soil ready for planting
a new flower garden or vegetable garden? First you need to know what type of
soil you have and the Ph level.
Generally,
the normal preparation for the soil is to apply the following:
• 2 cubic yard of good quality compost (salts
<3 mmohS/cm & C:N
ratio of 20-1)
• Apply 20 lbs per 1,000 sq.ft. of elemental sulfur
• Fertilizer (15-15-15) with added chelated zinc & iron.
• Till this mixture into the soil to a depth
of about 3-6 inches.
7. What is fertilizer? A fertilizer is any
substance that contains one or more recognized plant nutrients. It is made up
of mineral salts containing nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) which
when dissolved in water, will provide those 3 major nutrients. Fertilizers may
be divided into two broad categories, natural and man-made. Natural fertilizers
generally originate from unprocessed organism sources such as plants or
animals. Man-made fertilizers can be organic (for example, urea) or inorganic
(for example, superphosphate).
8. How do I know what fertilizer to use?
Soil pH should be considered when selecting the fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizers are preferred, but
similar results can be obtained using small amounts of soluble fertilizers
applied frequently. Read and follow all label instructions and safety
precautions
The
analysis, or grade, of a fertilizer refers to the amount of nitrogen (N),
phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the fertilizer. The analysis is always
printed on the fertilizer label. A well balanced fertilizer of 15-15-15 (NPK)
is recommended with added zinc & iron.
9. What are organic fertilizers? These
fertilizers are not man-made chemicals but made from organic matter. There are
two types of organic fertilizers.
• Plant: compost made from decomposed plants,
vegetables and fruits to form a more stable soil like material.
• Animal: such as cow or chicken manures.
Manure is an excellent fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium
and other nutrients. It also adds organic matter to the soil which may improve
soil structure, aeration, soil moisture-holding capacity, and water
infiltration. Poultry manure is typically higher in nitrogen. Whatever manure you use, be sure that it is
weed seed free and salt content is low.
10. What is organic matter? Organic matter (
11. Is using manure a safe means of
incorporating organic matter in your soil?
Yes,
if the manure is composted or sterilized as opposed to raw manure. Composted
manure offers advantages over raw manure including macronutrients, weed control
and disease control. It provides substantial quantities of the macronutrients
nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Microorganisms in the compost pile holds nutrients which
prevents leaching. Raw manure can have
weed seeds and will not be sterile. Another consideration is the salt content.
12. How do I apply fertilizers? When using
commercial fertilizer, always carefully read and follow all directions.
• Gardens: incorporate into the soil along with
topsoil and organic matter or you can band it two (2) inches to the side of the
garden row.
• Lawns: Fertilizer for lawns should be 3:1:2 ratio. Established lawns require 0.5 to 1.0 pound of N per
1,000 square feet per month of active growth. So divide that amount into
thirds. Apply September, November and late May of early June.
• Shrubs/trees: Spread fertilizer around the
drip-line. However, the best treatment is a deep root feed. Mix liquid
fertilizer, makes small holes around the drip-line and fill with solution. This
will take it directly to the roots where it will then be taken up into the
entire shrub or tree.
13. Does my soil need anything else besides
N-P-K fertilizer? Yes, good compost and good healthy soil needs secondary
elements and micronutrients. There are 16 elements that are now considered
essential.
14. What are secondary elements &
micronutrients?
i. Secondary
nutrients: Ca, Mg, S
ii. Micro nutrients: (B), (Cu), (Fe), (Mn), (Mo), (Zn), (Cl)
15. What is Compost Tea? This is a liquid
made from steeping water with manure or compost. This can be bought
commercially or you can make it yourself. Research shows that compost tea, long
used as a fertilizer, can also help plants fight off fungal diseases such as
powdery mildew and tomato late blight. Microorganisms in the compost apparently
either grow more successfully than or actively attack the disease causing
fungus.
16. So you have a recipe for compost tea?
Make the tea by steeping a burlap or cheesecloth bag containing 1 gallon of
well -aged, manure- based compost in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Stir it well
and leave it in a warm place for 3 days. Then remove the bag and put the liquid
in a sprayer or a watering can. Remove all leaves damaged by disease, then
spray or sprinkle the tea over the whole plant. Repeat every 3 to 4 days if the
plants still shows symptoms. This spray is most effective when applied in the
evening so plant leaves will remain moist for a few hours.
17. What is Cation
Exchange Capacity? In soil science, cation exchange
capacity (CEC) is defined as the capacity of a soil for ion exchange of cations (positive charged elements) between the soil and
the soil solution. CEC is used as a measure of fertility, nutrient retention
capacity, and the capacity to protect groundwater from cation
contamination.
18. What are soil aggregates? Soil
aggregates are ‘clumps’ of soil particles that are held together by moist clay,
organic matter, bacteria and fungi. These particles fit together creating
varying sizes of space which are needed for microbial, oxygen and water
movement.
19. How do I know what the salt content of
my soil is? Visual symptoms of the plants can be used to identify these
problems, but ultimately a soil test is the best way for an accurate diagnosis.
20. How high can the salt be in my soil? The
acceptable base saturation limit for sodium is <5%. Soil salinity is the
salt content in the soil. Stalinization is a process that results from:
• high levels of salt
in the soils.
• landscape features
that allow salts to become mobile. (movement of water
table)
• climatic trends
that favor accumulation.
• human activities
such as land clearing and aquaculture activities.
Salts
can also be deposited via dust and precipitation. As the sodium predominates,
soils can become sodic. Sodic
soils tend to have very poor structure which limits or prevents water
infiltration and drainage. The consequences of salinity are
• detrimental effects
on plant growth and yield
• damage to
infrastructure (roads, bricks, corrosion of pipes and cables)
• reduction of water
quality for users, sedimentation problems
• soil erosion
21. What is the importance of the Soil PH?
It is a measure of the soil acidity or Soil alkalinity. An acid solution has a
pH value less than 7. While a basic solution always has a pH
larger than 7. The pH can affect the availability of nutrients in the
soil. Many nutrient cations such as zinc (Zn2+), aluminium (Al3+), iron (Fe2+), copper (Cu2+), cobalt (Co2+),
and manganese (Mn2+) are soluble and available for uptake by plants below pH
5.0, although their availability can be excessive and thus toxic in more acidic
conditions. In more alkaline conditions they are less available, and symptoms
of nutrient deficiency may result, including thin plant stems, yellowing (chlorosis) or mottling of leaves, and slow or stunted
growth. Before altering the pH levels, you should have a pH soil test. Adding
elemental sulfur will lower the pH.
22. What is the PH range for our area? (
23. What is Humic acid? Humic acid are
a family of organic molecules made up of very long carbon chains and numerous
active radicals such as phenols and aeromatics. Humic substances are rich in carbons, which fuel the
activities of beneficial soil microorganisms. Humic
substances have been documented to interact in some manner with over 50
elements from the periodic table. Humic acids are now
being used on hundreds of thousands of acres for enhancing soil physical,
chemical and biological properties and fertilizer use efficiency. This has
economically benefited the growers, the soil environment, and has strong
implications for surface and ground water protection.
24. What are benefits of adding Humic substances to the soil? It
can hold 80-90% of it’s weight in moisture, therefore
making your soil more drought-resistant. It reduces compaction, giving better
root penetration and water movement.
25. What types of materials do you use for
composting? It has been done with a wide variety of substrates including yard
waste, food waste, and manure. Do not
use: Metal, glass, rubber, domestic pet waste, meat/bones, fat-grease-butter-mayo,
peanut butter, cheese or dairy products, fish products or any substance
contaminated with pesticides or materials that attract.
If you have further questions, need a soil
test or a solution to a horticulture issue, please
call us at 208-587-2136 ext 509 or email us at elmore@uidaho.edu or stop by the
office at 535 E
Submitted to Hi-Lites April 2010 mydocs: 2010Activities/Publications/PopularPress/HiLites